Chemmeen Curry hails from one of the most naturally beautiful, historically interesting, and culturally diverse places in the world. The recipe calls for shrimp, but a firm white fish could be substituted, and tofu might work just fine if you are a vegetarian.
In the country of India, the state of Kerala is known as "God's Own Country," due to it's stunning natural environment with tropical rain forests and a beautiful coastline. My family was incredibly fortunate to visit there in 2012, and we learned that Kerala has a lot more going for it than natural splendor (although it indeed has that). We stayed in Fort Cochin, which is Kerala's ancient port city that has been a spice trade entrepot for quite literally thousands of years. Kerala is one of the most culturally diverse places in India (and that is saying something!). There you will find Hindus, Muslims, and Christians living in relative harmony compared to other more troubled areas in India. When we got to Kerala, the first thing we noticed was that we'd arrived just before state elections. Looking rather out of place (at least to us, certainly not the people who live there) was an abundance of bright red banners and large posters with images of Karl Marx, Vladimir Lenin and Che Guevara. Power routinely fluctuates between a more left leaning than typical Indian National Congress and a less radical version of the Communist Party of India.
Fort Cochin is home to the Paradesi Synagogue, originally built in 1568 and making it the oldest synagogue still in existence in Asia. The original Jewish inhabitants may have arrived in Southern India following the destruction of the "Firs Temple" in 587 B.C,. and there is documentary evidence that more came after the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE. By one accounting, as many as 10,000 arrived in what is now known as Cochin. Still more settled some time in the 12th Century, and they are referred to as the Malibari Jews or the Black Jews. At the height of their community, they had build seven synagogues in Cochin. In the 16th Century, Ladino speaking Sephardic Jews arrived and established themselves, becoming known at the Paradesi (foreign) or White Jews. Still later in late 19th Century, Arabic speaking Jews also came to Kerala and were called Baghdadi Jews. These latter groups worshipped at the Paradesi Synagogue. Relations between the Jewish community and local leaders was complex, but mostly amicable; but the relations with conquering European powers (the Dutch and Portuguese) were far more tumultuous. With the founding of Israel, most of the Jewish population of Kerala emigrated to Israel. The young woman, Yaheh Hallegua, who sells tickets to tourists at the synagogue is one of the last remaining Paradesi Jews in the city.
Kerala is also one of (if not the only) surviving communities of a branch of Catholicism that once spanned all of southern continental Asia. They are variously know as St. Thomas, or Syrian, Nasrani, or Malabar Catholic Church. This branch of Catholicism was thought to have been founded by St. Thomas the Apostle in the mid part of the first century. It is believed that he established seven churches in Kerala. They are sometimes referred to as Syrian Catholics because of their close coordination with the Syrian Church between 496 to 1599 CE, although culturally they were far more Indian than not and rather independent in spirit. Nowadays they are referred to as the Syro Malabar Church. They more than three million strong in Kerala, and there are more than 200,000 living outside of India, the largest group being the 85,000 that live in Chicago, USA. All told, there are over 3,000 parishes world-wide.
One of the best things to do in Fort Cochin, is to visit the "Go Downs," the spice warehouse along the edges of the city's harbor. There you will find workers using ancient techniques for processing spices, along with merchants making deals on their iphones. There seems to be a nearly infinite number of different spices being loaded and off-loaded from boats and ships, on display for buyers and being processed by hand and machine. The aromas are overwhelming (in a very nice way). Other warehouses ship rice, and again there are a great number of varieties being sold and shipped.
Other highlights include taking in a performance of the elaborately costumed Kathakali dance dramas, where donning of costumes and putting on makeup are integrated into the ritual. The Kathakali drama consists of stories from the Hindu scriptural epics, the Mahabarata and the Ramayana. It's a tradition that dates back at least 1500 years and was originally a part of the cult of Bhagavathy temple festivals. Now performances are mostly done for tourists visiting Kerala. Some (all?) of the actors place a seed from the African Eggplant or Chandra Flower under their eyelids which turns the whites of their eyes blood red. Very Dramatic indeed!<
One of the sites to see (which are also a tourist fixture in Fort Cochin) are the 30-foot tall Chinese cantilevered fishing nets, which are rather photogenic. Although they are called the Chinese Fishing Nets, their actual history is only speculative. It is said that if you find the right one, the operators will snag a fish or two, which can be then taken to a local eatery to be cooked.
Another favorite pastime for tourists in Kerala are the houseboat cruises through the backwaters of Alleypy (south of Cochin). These houseboats are unlike anything you have ever seen. Originally used to transport rice and produce (the local name for them is Kettuvalloms), these are for all intents and purposes floating luxury suites that exuberantly embrace a tropical fantasy style. The boats move slowly through palm-tree and rice-field surrounded waters, and you can even rent ones that are "punted," moved along tranquil waters propelled by human powered poles.
And oh yes, the food in Kerala is wonderful. Although most of the cuisine is vegetarian, there are also many meat and poultry dishes to be enjoyed. Due to proximity to the ocean, fish is also widely consumed. Coconut palms abound in the Southwest of India, so this is a very important ingredient in cooking. Rice and cassava (tapioca) are the major starches consumed. Also known as the "Land of Spices," many dishes are highly spiced and tamarind is used freely to add a touch of sour to dishes. Chilies are also used in abundance. Not surprisingly, foods and food avoidances differ according to whether a household is Hindu, Muslim or Christian. Food is traditionally served on banana leaves. Kerala is also known for a banquet style of eating called sadya, a feast enjoyed on special occasions, featuring rice and a great number of vegetarian side dishes.
Our recipe of the month is Chemmeen Curry, otherwise known as Kerala Prawn Kerala Shrimp Curry. Whether you used prawns (generally from fresh water, bigger and having 3 pairs of claws) or shrimp (from saltwater, generally smaller and having only 2 sets of claws) doesn't matter one bit. To go along with the curry, we have a recipe for appam, a coconut and rice batter pancake that hails from Kerala. It goes great with any meal of the day, but is often eaten with fish curry for breakfast. Appam gets its slight rise from fermenting the rice for a day before cooking. Store bought mixes use baking soda to achieve rise. Appam is believed to have originated in Kerala, but many different forms of the idea are found throughout southern India. Appam is particularly associated with the St. Thomas Catholics, but the food historian and cookbook author Gil Marks says that appam was also a favorite of the Jewish community in Kerala.
he recipe requires a technique widely used in Indian cooking called "tadka" or "spluttering" or "tempering," the frying/roasting of spices and other ingredients in hot Ghee (clarified butter), adding them to a dish either in the beginning or end of the preparation. Tempering brings out the full taste and aroma of many spices. The trick is to add the spices and ingredients in the right order and watch them very carefully so that they don't burn. Fortunately tempering takes mere seconds. If you do burn the spices, throw them away and try again until you get it right. Remember the process takes mere seconds, so do-overs are perfectly ok!
Typically this dish is prepared in an clay cooking pot, but this is not absolutely required. There are some regional variations such as adding green mangoes or tomatoes to the dish while cooking. If you want a thicker curry, use coconut cream; otherwise use coconut milk. You can adjust the spices to your own preferences, as it's always fun to experiment! All the specialty ingredients can be purchased in an Indian grocery store like Cash and Carry on Miramar road.
Ingredients:
- 1 pound of medium size shrimp or prawns
- 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
- 1 teaspoon crushed garlic
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander
- 1 teaspoon Garam Masala
- 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
- 1 teaspoon chili powder
- 5-6 curry leaves
- 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek (methi) seeds
- 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp or 1 teaspoon tamarind concentrate
- 2 cups coconut milk or cream
- 3 red chilies split lengthwise
- 3 green chilies split lengthwise
- 8 shallots
- 1 tablespoon ghee
- 1 teaspoon salt (optional)
Preparation:
- Clean and de-vein the shrimp.
- In a medium sized pot, heat the ghee until it is very hot.
- Add mustard and fenugreek seeds until they sputter.
- Add shallots, ginger, garlic, chilies, curry leaves, and saute until fragrant.
- Add ground coriander, garam masala, chili powder, turmeric and cook 1 minute longer.
- Stir in coconut milk/cream and tamarind.
- Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer.
- Add shrimp and simmer just long enough for the shrimp to cook through (about 2 minutes).
- Serve with appam or rice.
Appam (Kerala Rice Pancakes)
Ingredients:
- 1 cup of appam rice
- 1/2 cup of finely shredded unsweetened coconut
- 2 tablespoons of Yeast
- 2 cups of Water
Preparation:
- Soak the rice in 2 cups of water for 1 hour.
- Drain rice after it has been soaked
- Add rice, coconut and sugar to a food processor and blend it to a fine paste.
- Add enough warm water (80oF.)to make a thin batter.
- Mix in the yeast.
- Store batter in a warm place (80oF.) for 8 hours or overnight.
- Heat a non-stick small skillet (6") to medium high and very lightly coat with some cooking oil (coconut oil is best).
- Ladle about a quarter cup of the batter into the pan.
- Swirl the batter in the pan so that it covers not only the bottom of the pan, but an inch or so up the side of the pan (this is what creates the lacy border).
- Cover the pan.
- Fry the appam until the edges are light brown.
Additional notes:
- You can use appam premixed powder, which also includes lentils.
- If you use a premix, omit the sugar, but still add the yeast and wait until the batter ferments.
- You can use coconut milk instead of the shredded coconut and water for either method of preparation.
- Appam uses a particular variety of rice (known as appam rice), but any white rice would probably work fine.
Recipe: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo: Kathleen Johnston
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Moqueca a fish stew from Brazil. Combining fish, shrimp, tomatoes and coconut milk, moqueca has a unique flavorful taste. We believe that one of the best ways to combat ethnic stereotypes and widen one's cultural perspective and appreciation is to recognize the internal diversity that many cultures and countries have. Brazil embraces immense cultural diversity. Due to the forces of colonization and tremendous immigration to Brazil, the majority population in much of the eastern regions of Brazil hail from diverse countries in Africa, the Middle East, Europe, and Asia (particularly Japan). On the east coast, indigenous populations, particularly in urban areas, are only a tiny fraction of the number of residents. Our recipe of the month is from Bahia, which is a beautiful land on the eastern coast, approximately 1000 miles north of Rio de Janeiro. The capital city is Salvador, but it was previously known as Bahia too. Tourism is a major industry, and in addition to a tropical climate,, Bahia has a spectacular beach and also is host to the largest street festival in the world. While Rio's more famous (and more expensive) Carnival is world renowned, the six-day Carnival in Salvador is its equal by nearly any measure.
Moqueca (mo-KEH-kah) comes from the state of Bahia in Brazil. Bahia means "bay" in Portuguese, and the Bay of All Saints (Bahia de Todos os Santos) is the largest navigable bay in Brazil. The explorer Amerigo Vespucci gave the bay its name when he landed there at the end of the 14th Century. Vespucci was born Italian, but he sailed under the Spanish and then later Portuguese flag. Like Columbus, he was searching for a sea route to India. However, much of the true history of his voyages remains a mystery because at least in two cases, evidence for such voyages was based on letters that many scholars consider to be forgeries. The German cartographer, Martin Waldseem
From the 16th Century Bahia became a very large sugar cane growing and processing center. Slaves brought from Africa worked the fields and in the processing plants. Forty percent of all the slaves brought to America (more than 5 million) came to Brazil, most to Bahia which became the largest slave selling site in the New World. Many of the slaves were sent to other plantations throughout Brazil. Brazil abolished slavery in 1888, through the signing of the Lei Áurea (Golden Law), by Princess Isabel of the Empire of Brazil. The text of the proclamation was brief and succinct: Article 1: From this date, slavery is declared abolished in Brazil. Article 2: All dispositions to the contrary are revoked. Many slaves took considerable personal risk to retain their African heritage. So new traditions developed that were loosely based on African practices. Capoeira is now enjoyed as a spirited martial arts and dance form accompanied by drums, and the "stringed bow" berimbau is partly based on an Angolan mating ritual but was at the same time a very effective fighting style developed by escaped slaves who sought liberation for themselves and their fellow slaves. The Brazilian government outlawed capoeira, and those charged with practicing it were whipped, tortured and sometimes given long jail sentences. The ban was only lifted in 1937.
Not surprising given this history, many dishes in Bahia have African influence and use coconut milk or coconut meat. The ingredients for the dish vary from place to place in Bahia and Moqueca is a very popular seafood dish in Bahia and is often eaten with farofa, a couscous-like dish that is based on toasted manioc (a staple crop in West Africa) flour or meal. You can substitute the farofa with rice. This recipe calls for both fish and shrimp. Any firm white fish (cod, shark, swordfish, bass, red snapper, etc.) will do. This recipe is best if you marinate the seafood for one hour or so, so please do this ahead of time. Traditionally this dish is prepared in an oven-proof ceramic dish, but a Dutch oven or a large pot or skillet works fine. Preparing this dish only requires basic kitchen skills, but the results are fabulous, and it would be a good dish to serve at a party.
Brazilian palm oil, coconut milk, and manioc meal (for farofa) can be purchased at the Brazil by the Bay Market.
Ingredients:
- 1 ½ pounds of white fish (pull out the pin bones before cooking!)
- 1 pound of shrimp, shelled and de-veined (can leave the tails on)
- 2 cups of sliced onions (1 medium large onion)
- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes
- 1 bell pepper (red or yellow), thinly sliced (Note: we are particularly fond of the small bell peppers that are widely available now, sliced into rings)
- 2 garlic cloves, minced or crushed
- 1 14½-ounce can of coconut milk (or cream if you desire a thicker sauce)
- 4 tablespoons of fresh lime juice.
- 6 tablespoons of chopped cilantro
- 2 tablespoons palm oil
- 1 tablespoon of paprika
- 1 teaspoon of pepper flakes, or serve with your favorite hot sauce (Ours is Marie Sharp's from Belize)
- Salt and pepper to taste.
Preparation:
- Mix together 1 tablespoon of the palm oil, garlic and lime juice.
- In a bowl of sufficient size, coat the fish and shrimp with lime juice marinade.
- Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the fish and shrimp marinate for 1 hour in the fridge.
- Slice all of the other vegetables and set aside.
- 20 minutes before the end of the marinating time, start the rice.
- In a frying pan, saute the onions and peppers in the remaining palm oil for 4-5 minutes or until the onions are translucent.
- Add the tomatoes, coconut milk, paprika, pepper flakes and salt and pepper to the frying pan and stir.
- In a large skillet or dutch oven, arrange the fish on the bottom of the vessel.
- Gently pour the mixture from the frying pan over the seafood
- Bring the skillet/dutch oven to a simmer.
- Cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes (until the fish is flaky).
- Add the shrimp, being sure that it is fully submerged, cover and cook for an additional 4 minutes after the mixture has returned to a gentle simmer.
- Sprinkle the cilantro over the Moqueca and serve over rice or farofa.
- Serve with hot sauce so that guests or family members can add as much or little spiciness as they prefer.
Cook's notes:
- If you decide to prepare this in an earthenware pot, you will follow all the directions up to step 9 and then cover the vessel and cook it in the oven at 400° for 10 minutes.
- I'm sort of a fanatic about not over-cooking shrimp. When I cook this dish I add the shrimp for the final five minutes the skillet or pot simmers
Farofa
- Saute a quarter cup of chopped onions and one teaspoon of garlic in 2 tablespoons of dende (palm) oil
- Bring heat to medium high and add 2 cups of manioc meal.
- Lightly brown the manioc meal, stirring from the bottom for 8-12 minutes (being careful not to burn it)
Recipe and text: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo: Shari Johnston-O'Neill
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Hainanese Chicken Rice is found throughout much of mainland Southeast Asia, but it is most famous in the island nation of Singapore. It is an interesting blend of tastes, mixing mild tastes of chicken poached with ginger with heavier-tasting savory rice and enjoyed with sweet, sour and spicy sauces.
Hainan is the southernmost Chinese province and features an island tropical environment resplendent with palm trees and white sandy beaches. The interior of the island is mountainous and forested. Due to its proximity to age-old trade routes, it is more culturally diverse than most other parts of China. Hainanese-speaking Han are most evident, but observed religions include Chinese folk religions, Chinese and Theravada Buddhists, Muslims and some who were missionized Christian centuries ago. The island was populated by immigrants from the Chinese mainland, originally the Li, but later people from Fujian and Guangdong regions. Traditionally the Hainanese economy was based on fishing. Similar to all these Southeast Chinese areas, it has experienced a great deal of outward migration, due to famine, war and emerging opportunities in Southeast Asia.
Wherever the South Chinese ended up, they brought their culture with them; but to a surprising degree, they adapted to the cultures of their final destinations. Immigrants from Hainan brought their culinary traditions, which they adapted to Southeast Asian sensibilities and ingredients. The culture and food that developed in Singapore and Malaysia from this cultural transfusion is known as Peranakan, Baba-Nyonya or Nyonya culture. It is a distinct blending of Chinese and Southeast Asian culture and cuisine. Hainanese Chicken Rice is ubiquitous in the region and interestingly, unlike most other Peranakan cuisine, it's name retains it's cultural origins and is very similar to Wenchang Chicken from the island of Hainan. The main difference between the two is not so much the chicken (the preparation is quite similar), but the way the rice is prepared and the sauces served with the dish. Like many other Southeast Asian dishes, Hainanese Chicken Rice is salty, sour, sweet and spicy. Also similar to other dishes of the area, these distinct elements coupled with strong differences in textures and mouth-feel create a culinary experience that is far greater than the constituent parts. If you visit a hawker center in Singapore, you will surely find Hainanese Chicken Rice.
Hainanese Chicken Rice must be prepared in stages, as you need the broth from the cooked chicken to make the rice. Ideally the chicken for this recipe is poached at a sub-boiling temperature for 45 minutes to an hour. This results in a very tender chicken, but you must test for doneness. This recipe is adapted to American chickens, which are considerably larger that chickens in Southeast Asia. Some recipes, no doubt erring on the side of caution, call for boiling the chicken or bringing it to a boil for 20 minutes or so and then turning off the heat and covering the pot for another 15 to twenty minutes until the chicken is cooked through. An unusual final step is to remove the cooked chicken from the broth (which you must reserve to cook the rice) and then gently lowering the cooked chicken into an ice bath to cool it. The New York Times writer Mark Bitman had this to say about the dish: "Hainanese chicken, the best one is the provenance of devotees, who save the stock they don't need for the rice, freeze it, and use it as a starting point for the next time they cook chicken this way. If you do this repeatedly, the stock will become stronger and stronger, as will the flavors of both chicken and rice. If you do this hundreds of times, the way restaurants do, the flavors will be quite intense. But even if you do it once, the dish is a total winner."
Ingredients:
Chicken
- 1 whole fresh chicken
- Sufficient water to just cover chicken
- 4-5 slices ginger
- 3 scallions, cleaned and cut into thirds (use white and green parts, but not roots)
- 1 tablespoon salt
- Ice
Rice
- 3 cups of jasmine rice
- Chicken fat from fresh chicken
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- 4 shallots finely sliced
- 4-1/2 cups chicken stock
- 2 teaspoons salt
Ginger-Garlic Sauce
- 2 tablespoons of shredded ginger
- 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
- 3 tablespoons sesame oil
- pinch of salt
Sweet Dark Soy Sauce
Note: Kecap Manis can be substituted
- 1/3 cup water
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1/2 cup dark soy sauce
Chili Sauce:
- 3 tablespoons chicken broth
- 1 tablespoon lime juice
- 2 teaspoons white vinegar
- 6 fresh, finely sliced red Thai chilies
- 1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger
- 3 cloves of garlic chopped finely
- ½ teaspoon sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon sugar
Preparation:
Cooking the chicken:
- Remove any fat from the whole chicken and reserve for preparing the rice.
- Place the whole chicken in a large pot that is just large enough to fit the chicken from side to side without crowding.
- Add the ginger, cut up scallions, and salt to the pot (around the sides of the chicken).
- Add just enough water to the pot to cover the chicken completely.
- Heat water to a full boil, then cover the pot tightly and turn off the burner.*
- Leave the chicken in the hot water for 45 minutes and test for doneness by pricking a leg with a toothpick or skewer (the juices should be clear).
- When the chicken is nearly done, fill a large bowl or pot with ice water.
- Very gently transfer the cooked chicken to the ice water bath and keep it there until the chicken is fully cooled.
- Gently remove the chicken and pat dry with a paper or cloth towel.
- Cut the chicken in serving portions (see photo).
* We used a Dutch oven to make sure the temperature was retained long enough for the chicken to cook all the way through.
Cooking the rice:
- Render the reserved chicken fat in a frying pan over medium heat. If necessary, add some peanut or light olive oil so that you have 2-3 tablespoons of oil in the pan.
- Saute the shallots in the chicken fat for two minutes.
- Add the minced garlic and saute for another minute.
- Add the rice to the pan.
- Stir rice constantly to mix well with the oil, shallots and garlic (2 - 3 minutes)and everything is glossy.
- Transfer rice to a rice cooker or pot.
- Add 4-1/2 cups of chicken stock, cover and turn on rice cooker. If using a pot, bring everything to a boil, cover and turn down the heat to low, and wait 15 minutes.
Prepare the sauces. Simply mix the ingredients mentioned and distribute to individual bowls.
Serve chicken and rice on individual plates and garnish with thin cucumber slices (cut in half), fresh cilantro and tomato wedges. Scoring the cucumer lengthwise with a fork before it is sliced makes it visually appealing.
Selamat Makan!
慢慢吃 (Mang-Mang Sik)!
Recipe by T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo by Shari Johnston-O'Neill
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Thiéboudienne (French) or Ceeb ak Jën (Wolof) is a one-pot, tomato-based fish and vegetable dish and the national dish of Senegal. Senegal is a west African country that is home to numerous ethnic groups. It is believed that the dish originated on the Senegalese island of St. Louis. Until 1957, St. Louis was the capital of Senegal and is now a UN World Heritage site. It has been suggested that dishes like Thiéboudienne, enjoyed widely in Senegal, help forge a national identity in the context of a widely diverse country. The five large groups in order of population are Wolof, Fula, Sere, Jola, and Mandinka. Although the most widely spoken language is Wolof, being a former colony, the official language is French. Despite linguistic differences, these groups are culturally similar, and marriage between groups is very common. The capital city of Dakar is famous for its nightlife and many kinds of music, but most popular is the national music known as Mbalax which is a fusion of indigenous drum music with Western music (jazz, soul, Latin, rock).width=100%>Thiéboudienne is a fish, rice, tomato and vegetable dish that is cooked in a single pot. There are lots and lots of variations, and many kinds of fish and vegetables are used, whatever is most available. In her book entitled "High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America," Jessica B. Harris states that there is a direct historical connection between Thiéboudienne and Charleston Red Rice. It is also similar to Jollof Rice found in Ghana, Mali and Nigeria. Fish can be cooked in fillets (skin on or off), chunks, or even whole. Although added to the pot later, the fish is often stuffed with an onion and parsley paste and cooked separately. Vegetables used include onions, lettuce, cabbage, turnips, squash, pumpkin, carrots, eggplants, cabbage, cassava, okra and just about any kind of peppers. Bullion, often Maggi Nokoss contains onion and hibiscus flavors as well as MSG [Check]. Tamarind adds some sourness, but the dish can also be served with lime wedges to achieve a similar result. Hibiscus flowers or powder, called bissup is an important ingredient. Dried hibiscus flowers are also known as Jamaica and are available at Specialty Produce. Hibiscus originated in China, but it has been traded throughout the world for the past 300 years. The other somewhat unusual ingredient is cassava root, otherwise known as yuca root, and it can also be purchased at Specialty Produce. The recipe below uses fish sauce to add umami flavor instead of MSG based bouillon, but depending on your preferences, you can use either. Traditionally Thiéboudienne is eaten by several people from a common platter.
Ingredients:
Stuffing for the fish (roof or roff)
- 1/2 cup parsley stems removed and chopped fine
- 1 teaspoon crushed red chile flakes
- 6 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
- 2 scallions, chopped fine
- 1 small yellow onion chopped fine
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1 pound of fish (variety cook's choice)
For the Thiéboudienne (in order they are used)
- 1/3 cup of cooking oil (red palm oil is most authentic)
- 2 medium yellow onions, roughly chopped
- 2 medium bell peppers (green, red or yellow), chopped roughly (remove stems and seeds first)
- 4 cups fish, chicken or vegetable stock
- 1 cup tomato puree
- 2 tablespoons tamarind paste
- 2 tablespoons fish sauce
- 1/3 cup dried white hibiscus flowers (aka Jamaica) soaked in boiling water
- 3 cups rice (your choice of type)
- 1 half of an acorn squash (1 inch cubes)
- 3 carrots cut into large chunks
- 1 turnip cubed
- 1 cassava (aka yuca) root, peeled and cut into chunks
Preparation:
- Finely chop the de-stemmed parsley, scallions and onion, and then mix together with the chilie flakes, crushed garlic and some salt and pepper.
- Cut up, chop or slice the vegetable ingredients mentioned above.
- Chop the dried Hibiscus flowers medium fine.
- Soak the dried Hibiscus flowers in 1 cup of hot water.
- In a large pot or Dutch oven, saute in the oil the chopped onions, bell peppers until soft.
- Add the fish (chicken, or vegetable) stock to the pot.
- Stir in the fish sauce, hibiscus flowers (with the water they are soaking in),tomato puree and tamarind to the stock.
- Add the rice to the pot.
- Add the remaining cut up roots and vegetables to the pot.
- Bring pot to a boil and then bring down to a very low simmer.
- Be sure to frequently check with a spoon or spatula to ensure the dish doesn't burn on the bottom.
- Make fairly deep slashes (or punch holes) in the fish.
- Stuff the slashes or holes in the fish with with chopped parsley-onion.
- In a pan, fry the fish on both sides in some oil.
- The rice and vegetables will take about 30 minutes to cook. 10 minutes before the end, gently place the fish on top of the other ingredients in the pot.
- When the rice and vegetables are fully cooked, remove from heat and serve.
Cook's notes:
- This recipe is heavier on the quantities of cassava, turnip, and squash than would be typical for this dish. For this size preparation, an authentic quantify of these items would be half or even a quarter as much indicated. This was done to avoid having to save halves of these items (although we did that for the squash).
- Many recipes call for using tomato paste instead of puree. Doing so will increase the likelihood that the dish will burn on the bottom of the pot, so more care is required.
- In Senegal Thiéboudienne is often served on a large communal platter with four to five people seated cross-legged around the platter. Traditionally diners eat with their hands.
Recipe: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo: Shari K. Johnston-O'Neill
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The Participant Observer Recipe of the Month is for Empanadas Mendocinas with Chimichurri. Growing in popularity in the US, empanadas or empanada-like turnovers are found in the cuisine of many cultures. They are relatively easy to prepare, freeze well (before they are cooked), and are a great thing to take to parties. Our recipe is for the Argentinean baked style. Coupled with a concoction of garlic and Italian parsley known as Chimichurri, these savory treats can be eaten as a hearty snack or even a full meal.
There are many types of dishes and foods that seem ubiquitous. Nearly every culture has some sort of stew or soup, and the concept of a tortilla is tremendously widespread, if not universal. The question is whether these styles of food preparation are examples of independent invention or the product of historical cultural diffusion. In the short view of history, empanadas appear to have originated from the place where there name was born, Spain or the Iberian peninsula. However, they appear to have arrived on the culinary scene after considerable contact with the Indian subcontinent, arguing for the possibility that empanadas were derived from Indian samosas. Empanadas are found throughout the Latin world, but in some countries they are better known as panades, pastel and various other similar names. If you travel to Cornwall, England, you are sure to encounter beef, potato and turnip-filled "pasties", which have achieved the status of Protected Geographical Indication in Europe, and are very nearly identical to empanadas. Generically in the US they are known as "turnovers" and not only include savory fillings but are often filled with fruit, like the apple turnover. If you are pressed for time, or in some way averse to rolling pins and dough-making, you can get empanada disks (discos) at Andre's Latin American Market on Morena Blvd.
Most empanadas are deep-fat fried. However, Argentinean empanadas are typically baked instead. If you are trying to cut down on fat, surely the oven-baked method will be kinder to your waistline, but for this recipe of the month we tried both styles and despite the greater caloric burden imposed by deep-fat frying, it was our preference. Baking the empanadas results in a crust that is somewhat cracker-like. Empanadas come in a variety of sizes. Empanadas can be made ahead of time and frozen before they are cooked. You should not thaw them before cooking. If your empanadas are large, they might require cooking at a lower heat for a longer time. Keep in mind that the filling is precooked (with the exception of the scallions and olives), so any method of reheating that browns the crust and heats the filling will suffice. Fillings that have ground beef, onions, peppers, olives (and sometimes raisins) are known as picadillo. South American empanadas, despite their savory fillings, often have sugar added to the dough or are dusted with powdered sugar after cooking. Baked empanadas can be sealed by being crimped with the tines of a fork. If you deep-fat fry them, however, you must make a better seal to prevent the oil from invading the filling, which would be very unfortunate. The edge of an empanadas is known as the repulgue. In numerous places the design created by the repulgue indicates what sort of filling the empanadas have. Empanadas can contain almost any ingredient that you like, including beef, pork, chicken, seafood, onions, peppers, potatoes, hearts of palm - whatever is available and suits your palate. Two ingredients stand out that make South American empanadas unique; raisins and green olives. Some versions have both. The recipe here uses sliced green Manzatta Spanish olives (ours were stuffed with pimentos). When used judiciously the green olives offer a nice bite that balances the meat and onions in the filling. If re-heating already cooked empanadas, it is best to do so in an oven or a toaster oven, as microwaving them softens the crust.
Chimichurri is a sauce that is frequently used in Argentina and Uruguay as a marinade, for basting or as a sauce for grilled meats. It also makes for a wonderful dip for Argentinean empanadas. The ingredients are basic; fresh (Italian) parsley, garlic, oregano, red wine or white vinegar, chili flakes (or chopped fresh chilies) and olive oil. Some cooks add cilantro too. The flavors that stand out the most are the parsley, garlic and chili.
Ingredients (filling):
- 1 pound of ground beef (may substitute other fish or meat)
- 2 cups of chopped onions
- 2 teaspoons cumin
- 1 teaspoon oregano
- 2 tablespoons smoked paprika
- 1 red bell pepper, chopped finely
- 1/2 cup of sliced green olives
- 1/2 cup diced tomatoes (optional)
- 1/2 teaspoon pepper
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon (or more!) red pepper flakes
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced or chopped
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 3 scallions, sliced thinly
Ingredients (dough):
- 4 cups of all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into small pieces
- 1 cup cold water
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water (for egg-wash)
Preparation (filling):
- Hard boil 3 large eggs (our favorite method is to place the eggs in a pot of room temperature water, heat the eggs to a full boil, and then cover the pan and wait 20 minutes.
- Measure out and set aside the spices.
- Finely chop the onions and the red bell pepper.
- In a large skillet, lightly brown the ground beef in a 1/4 cup of olive oil.
- Fold in the onions and red bell pepper.
- When the onions are translucent, mix in all the spices and continue to cook for an additional minute.
- Set the filling aside to cool.
- Slice the olives.
- Slice the scallions thinly (both white and green but discard the end roots).
- Chop the eggs rather finely (using an egg slicer first makes it a breeze).
- After the meat mixture has cooled, gently mix in the olives, eggs and scallions.
Preparation (dough):
- Lightly beat 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of water until the yolk and whites are thoroughly mixed (but don't whisk!).
- In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking soda and salt.
- Cut the cold butter into small 1/4-inch chunks.
- Mix the butter into the mixing bowl, distributing it throughout.
- Either press the now flour-covered chunks of butter against the side of the bowl or pinch the butter between your fingers to break it up. The goal is to create little flour-covered pebbles of butter. Using cold butter is essential to this process - the goal is to not let the butter melt.
- Add the cold water to the flour in small amounts and mix into a dough which is a little bit on the dry side but not crumbly.
- Refrigerate the dough for about 30 minutes.
- Divide the dough into 12 equal portions (divide in half, then in 3rds and then each in half once again.
- One by one roll each portion into a ball and then flatten the ball with your hand to make a thick disk.
- Roll the dough out so that you have a 6-7-inch round or until the dough is evenly an 1/8 inch thick.
- Either set aside the rounds (separated by wax paper) or fill each after it is rolled out.
- Scoop up about a 1/2 cup of the filling in a large spoon (or use several small spoonfuls).
- Spoon the filling onto the dough rounds in such a way that the filling is one side of the center-line and thicker in the middle than the ends.
- Brush the egg mixture along the outer edge of the side that has the filling.
If you are baking the empanadas:
- Pre-heat your oven to 400 degrees.
- Fold the dough over the center-line and then press it along the bottom edge.
- With the tines of a fork facing the center of the empanada, gently press the dough along the edge to create a seal.
- Brush the egg wash all over the top of the empanada
- On a parchment-lined baking sheet, bake the empanadas for 25 to 30 minutes or until they are golden brown. Don't crowd the empanadas on the baking sheet. This may mean you have to do two batches.
If you are frying the empanadas:
- Fold the dough over the center-line and then press it along the bottom edge.
- Pinch, fold over and pinch again the edge of the dough (see photo).
- In a deep-fat fryer or a large skillet with about 2 inches of high-temperature oil, fry the empanadas at 350 degrees until they are golden brown.
Chimichurri Ingredients:
- 1 cup (packed) fresh Italian parsley
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 1/3 cup red or white wine vinegar
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
Note: Pre-made chimichurri can also be purchased at Andre's.
Chimichurri Preparation:
- Rinse and shake dry the parsley.
- Remove the leaves from the parsley stems until you obtain 1 cup (pressed) of leaves.
- Very finely chop the parsley leaves.
- Crush or very finely chop the garlic cloves. (You could also use a food processor for these two steps.)
- In a mixing bowl combine the chopped ingredients, red pepper flakes, oil and vinegar.
Recipe: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photos: Shari Johnston-O'Neill
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