Eho-maki and California Sushi Rolls Eho-maki are a traditional seaweed wrapped sushi that can be enjoyed anytime during the year, but they have a central role in a Japanese festival, Setsubun, that takes place on February 3rd every year. Although the weather is still very cold in Japan, this event marks the beginning of Spring in the traditional calendar and it is now often a part of Haru Matsuri spring festivals. The celebration is otherwise known as the "bean throwing festival" (mamemaki). During this festival day, Japanese (particularly Japanese Buddhists) throw roasted soybeans at shrines, temples, and in some places, masked characters oni,(usually the senior male in a household) who play act like scary demons. The bean throwing drives away misfortune and evil spirits. Celebrations have become very elaborate at the larger temples. Sometimes the ritual is observed with specific dances, role-reversals (including cross-dressing and young people dressing like old people), special household decorations (including hanging sardine heads!) and the bringing of outdoor work tools inside homes to protect them from marauding and ill-tempered spirits. Ginger flavored sake is a popular drink on this day. Setsubun celebrations are most popular in the Kansai region where it is believed that they originated in, but are now celebrated nation-wide.

The Eho-maki rolls, which in addition to rice and nori (seaweed) have seven different fillings that symbolize the Seven Deities of Good Fortune (Shichifukujin). Ingredients often include: egg, spinach, crab (artificial or real), gourd strips (kanpyo), sweet fish powder (sakura denbu), cucumber and shitake mushrooms. Other versions might substitute eel or seasoned freeze-dried tofu (koyadofu). Normally, sushi rolls are cut into bite sized slices. However, for Setsubun are eating without being sliced. On the evening of Setsubun, participants face the current year's Zodiac constellation (the direction of good fortune), silently saying a prayer for good luck, and then eat the Eho-maki bite by bite until it is all finished. As Eho-maki rolls are rather large, this can sometimes be challenging!

All of the Japanese ingredients and equipment may be purchased at the Mitsuwa Marketplace or any other local Japanese grocery store. Helpful and Necessary Equipment:

• Rice cooker
• Large flat rice spoon
• Small cooking pan
• Small (9-inch) frying pan
• Large flat serving dish (really large)
• Japanese or other hand fan (optional)
• Sushi Rolling Mat

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups Japanese short-grain rice
• 1 package of Nori (seaweed)
• 2 tablespoons of Japanese sweet sake (Mirin)
• 4 tablespoons of Japanese rice vinegar
• 5 tablespoons of sugar
• 3 teaspoons of salt
• Soy sauce

7 Ingredients for Sushi Filling.

• 1 egg
• 1 bunch of spinach
• 1/2 cup dried shiitake mushroom pieces (not whole!)
• 1 small package of Japanese imitation crab (kanikama)
• 1 package dried gourd strips (kanpyo)
• 1 package sweet fish powder (really just for looks, it's bright pink!)
• 1 Japanese cucumber

PREPARATION:

Rice:

1. Cook 2 cups of Japanese rice according to directions on the package (amount of water varies)
2. While rice is cooking, prepare the other ingredients below and then return to the next step here to finish the rice
3. As soon as the rice finishes cooking, pile it into a very large flat bowl
4. Drizzle all the seasoned vinegar on the rice and mix the rice very very gently so that the vinegar coats as much rice as possible
5. Spread the rice out in the bowl so that it is a thin layer. Do this very gently so as to avoid breaking the rice kernels
6. For absolutely perfect sushi rice, vigorously fan the rice with a hand fan to cool it rapidly (this step often separates good sushi from mediocre sushi, so it is highly recommended!

Fillings:
Shitake Mushrooms

1. Soak shitake mushrooms in warm water for 10 minutes
2. Drain most of the mushroom water and reserve in a cup or bowl
3. Add 1 tablespoon each of soy sauce, sugar, and sweet sake to remaining water with the softened mushrooms
4. Gently boil mushroom until almost all of the liquid is absorbed or has evaporated
5. Remove mushrooms and let cool

Gourd Strips

1. Soak the gourd strips in cold water for 10 minutes
2. Drain all of the water
3. Pour the reserved mushroom water in a pot and add the softened gourd strips
4. Add 1 tablespoon each of soy sauce, sugar and sweet sake to remaining water with the softened gourd strips
5. Gently boil the gourd strips for ten minutes
6. Remove gourd strips and let cool

Cucumber

1. Cut cucumber into 4 lengthwise
2. Carve away the seeds
3. Slice cumbers into 3/8th inch strips

Eggs

1. Mix, but don't beat two eggs in a bowl
2. Pour mixed eggs into a medium oiled or buttered 9-inch frying pan and make a flat omelette
3. Remove from pan, cool the omelette and then cut into long strips

Spinach

1. Boil whole spinach leaves in water until softened

Rolling the Sushi

Sushi seaweed (nori) has a shiny side and a dull side. The shiny side should be placed face down on the sushi mat so that it will be on the outside of the finished sushi roll. Thinly spread rice on the lower 3/4 of the nori. The upper 1/4 (away from you) should be empty. In the middle of the rice place all the ingredients aligned left to right. Sprinkle everything with the sweet fish powder. At the two edges closest to you, pinch the sushi mat and the corners of the nori, lift and push forward until edge meets the end of the spread rice. Grasp the rolled mat with curved fingers, squeeze gently and roll it forward to seal the sushi roll. For the Setsubun ritual the roll is eaten whole, bite by bite. For everyday consumption, slice the rolls like regular sushi. The secret to perfectly sliced sushi is to start by cutting the roll precisely in half and then cutting the resulting pieces in half again and then cutting all those pieces in half. Using this method all the slices should be very close in thickness. Eho-maki is very mild tasting and you will find that all the flavors of the seven lucky ingredients are distinct and very pleasing. You can eat this sushi with wasabi, soy sauce and pink pickled ginger, but you really should try it first all by itself to experience the subtle interplay of all the ingredients without any masking from stronger ingredients.
Itadakimasu!

Original recipe submitted by Megumi Sato
Photo by Emily Johnston-O'Neill

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According to a recent survey, Chicken Jalfrezi has now become England's most popular takeout food (which they call "take away"), supplanting the milder and saucier Tikka Masala as a British favorite. Several observers have noted that British are increasingly seeking out spicier food. Jalfrezi hails from the north of India but it can be found in Pakistan as well. Folk etymologies abound for the origin of the name "Jalfrezi". Some think the curry was highly influenced by Chinese food. Chinese food in India is far different than what is found elsewhere in the world. This version of Jalfrezi uses chicken but other meats, Indian paneer cheese or vegetables (garbanzo beans, broccoli, peas etc.) can be used in place of the chicken. Unlike other curries, the vegetable and meat pieces are cut medium-large. There are several commercially available Jalfrezi sauces, but the basic spices are easy to come by—and everything tastes better fresh rather than from a bottle. As always, feel free to experiment. Jalfrezi is very easy to make, keeps well and tastes even better the day after it's made. Using brightly colored bell peppers makes it look a bit brighter in color than many Indian curries. Jalfrezi is also thicker and drier. This recipe uses Serrano chilies, for a milder dish use fewer chilies or substitute Jalapenos or ground chili. Jalfrezi is usually eaten with long-grained Basmati rice and/or naan.

Ingredients:

• 2 medium chicken breasts, cut in to medium sized cubes
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon turmeric
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee
• 1 onion sliced
• 1 red Bell Pepper, seeded and cut into medium sized pieces
• 1 yellow Bell Pepper seeded and cut into medium sized pieces
• 3 Serrano chilies, de-seeded and sliced thin.
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 (14.5 ounce) crushed tomatoes or 2 cups of finely chopped fresh tomatoes)
• 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger root
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves
• red chili powder, to taste (optional)
• Salt (to taste)

Preparation:

1. In a bowl coat the chicken with the ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric and chili powder (optional).
2. Heat the oil or ghee in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat.
3. Add onions, Bell Peppers, chilies and garlic, and cook until the onions become translucent.
4. Add the seasoned chicken.
5. Fry gently, turning the chicken frequently.
6. Add tomatoes with their juice, cover the pan, and simmer over medium heat for 20 minutes.
7. Uncover, and simmer for another 10 minutes to evaporate most of the excess liquid.
8. Add ginger and cilantro, and simmer for another 5 to 7 minutes.
9. Add salt to taste.

Serve over Basmati rice and/or with Indian naan.

Recipe by Tom Johnston-O'Neill
Photo by Heidi Adams

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Italian Beef Braciole with Proscuitto Wrapped Asparagus

Braciole are stuffed meat rolls from Italy. The name is Sicilian and is pronounced /bra'zhul/ . Braciole are a type of roulade and in northern Italy are sometimes call involtini. There are a number of regional variations and while beef is typically used, stuffed pork rolls are also known. To confuse the traveler, in northern Italy the term braciole refers to a kind of bone-in pork cutlet. They are held together with either toothpicks or kitchen twine. Popular fillings include Parmesian or Romano cheese, herbed bread crumbs, Italian parsley, roasted pinenuts (pinoli), basil and sometimes egg either raw as a binder or quartered for texture and taste. Baraciole, after pan browned, can be cooked in variety of sauces. The sauce below is a simple tomato sauce with dry red wine. It's an easy to make recipe but a bit time-consuming because to get the meat tender it has to be simmered in the red sauce for an hour and a half to two hours. Serve the braciole with the strings attached letting your diners remove them.

Ingredients:

For Braciole:

• 2 pounds of flank or round steak cut thin
• 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese, grated
• 1/2 cup of Romano cheese, grated
• 1 cup of Italian seasoned bread crumbs
• 1/2 cup of Italian parsley, chopped
• 1/4 cup of toasted pine nuts
• 4 slices of Parma prosciutto, chopped
• 2 tablespoons of pesto
• 1/4 cup of light olive oil (note: other high temp oils can be used, but don't use regular olive oil)
• cotton cooking twine

For Sauce:

• 1 large can of crushed Italian tomatoes
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped fine
• 1 cup dry red table wine
• 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning (a dash each (equal parts) of dried Marjoram, Thyme, Rosemary, Sage & Oregano, or use a per-prepared mixture like McCormick s)

For Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus (for two)

• 12 asparagus spears
• 6 green onions (scallions)
• 3 slices prosciutto

Preparation:

1. Braciole can be made either as one very large roll or smaller rolls. Whichever style you decide on the steak needs to be pounded thin(1/4 inch) with a meat tenderizing mallet. This recipe assumes you are making the smaller sized braciole. To avoid making a mess, sandwich the meat between two sheets of plastic wrap before pounding.
2. Cut the meat into long strips. Creating strips 3 to 4 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches long is ideal, but this will be depend on the size and shape of the meat you are working with. Adjust the size of your cuts so that they are similar in shape and size.
3. Mix all the other ingredients (except the twine!)in a large bowl and mix thoroughly
4. Lay out a strip of the beef with one of the short sides facing you
5. Spoon the mixture (and pat down) on the beef, leaving a 1" space at the end (edge furthest from you)
6. Roll the beef like you would when making a burrito or sushi roll
7. To keep the roll intact tie it with two appropriate lengths of kitchen twine
8. In a skillet (cast iron works best), brown the beef rolls on all sides in the light olive oil.
9. While the braciole are browning, start the sauce.
10. In a large flat bottomed pot, on medium heat "sweat" the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Sweating is different than sautéing as the goal is not to brown the ingredients
11. Add the crushed tomatoes and red wine.
12. When the braciole are browned on all sides, place them in the sauce so that they are completely submerged
13. De-glaze the frying pan with the red wine and then pour the wine from the pan into the pot
14. Bring pot to a low simmer and cover.
15. Simmer braciole for one and a half to two hours on a low simmer.
16. Make one pound of your favorite pasta
17. Serve braciole and sauce over pasta

Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Wash and trim ends off the asparagus. Many cooks suggest snapping the asparagus on the theory that they will break precisely at the right point separating the tender part from the tough part. That's probably good general advice, but for this side dish, presentation matters, so cutting is preferred.
3. Wash the scallions, cut off roots and trim to the same length as the asparagus
4. Cut Prosciutto pieces in half.
5. Bundle together 2 asparagus spears and 1 scallion with one half a piece of prosciutto.
6. Roast in preheated oven for 10-15 minutes (time depends on thickness of asparagus)

Recipe by: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo by: Heidi Adams

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Patjuk and Kkaennip Jeon are Korean holiday treats and Patjuk is a particular favorite for the Korean winter solstice observance of Dongji.

Korean Patjuk ((紅豆汤)

For many thousands of years, astronomical alignments such as the solstices and equinoxes have been seen the world over as special events filled with religious or supernatural significance and ceremonial elaboration. The winter solstice marks the shortest day of the year (when the sun is at its lowest angle at noon). It usually falls on December 21st (as it does this year) or less frequently, on the 22nd. On the winter solstice (and only on that day) of every year the sun's rays shine into the center of the 5,000-year-old mound structure known as New Grange in Ireland. On the equinoxes, the shadowy shape of a mystical snake either slithers up or down the main staircase of the pyramid in Chichen Itza in the Yucatan. At Machu Picchu, Incan priests would ceremonially tie the sun to a large column of stone called the Intihuatana (lit. "the hitching post of the sun") to prevent the sun from escaping. The fact that the hours of daylight increase each day after the ceremony was obvious proof of the power of the ritual. The Korean celebration of the winter solstice is known as Dongji (동지). (It is similar to the Chinese, Dongzhi (冬至) which literally means "arrival of winter." The date is also known as "Little New Year" in Korea. Winter solstice is celebrated throughout east Asia with many variations although some elements (such as the eating of glutinous rice are widely found.

As is true with most religious or cultural celebrations everywhere in the world, food plays an important part. In traditional Korean observations of Dongji specific foods and their manner of use are laced with cultural and symbolic meaning. Patjuk, a sweet red bean and rice ball porridge, is traditionally enjoyed during Dongji. The red beans are thought to chase away evil spirits and sickness and the rice balls symbolize new life. In some places, Koreans would endeavor to eat the same number of rice balls as their age (and in Korea, everyone is one year old the day they are born, and gains a year at the lunar New Year, so if you are "trying this at home," add at least one more!). In days gone by, Koreans are said to have sprinkled the land around their homes with the red bean soup to protect their family from evil spirits. The ritual is based on a Korean folktale about a sinister ghost who is warded off by Patjuk, which he disliked when he was alive. Another traditional belief was that is was a good omen if the weather was cold on Dongji. Warm weather on this day was considered a harbinger of illness and a poor harvest the coming year. Dongji is no longer a major holiday in Korea. Patjuk, traditionally associated with Dongji, is now available in restaurants throughout the year.

You can purchase red bean paste, but if you make it yourself it will taste much better. The recipe is easy and fool proof, but takes a little bit of time to soak and cook the beans. The rice balls just consist of rice flower, water, and a pinch of salt. Although the method of preparation, texture, and presentation are different, Patjuk has the same flavors as Japanese daifuku (大福).

Kkaennip Jeon ( 깻잎전)

The second dish in this month's recipe offering is Kkaennip Jeon (Stuffed Perilla Beef Jeon). It is a treat that is also enjoyed in many celebrations and holidays throughout the year. Kkaennip leaves are similar to the smaller Japanese shiso leaves. The larger Korean leaves have a taste with hints of apple and mint. The leaves are used in many different recipes in Korea, even in their own type of pickled kimchi. Cooking them releases a taste that is somewhat like sesame and indeed they are often translated into English as "sesame leaves" (even though they are not related biologically to sesame). The Kkaennip Jeon are enjoyed with a vinegar-soy dipping sauce similar to the sauce for Japanese gyoza (餃子) and other dishes. The addition of tofu to the ground beef in the filling ensures that the filling maintains a soft texture even when fully cooked. It is important to fry the stuffed leaves on medium to ensure that the filling is completely cooked and the leaves are kept from burning.

Patjuk (Red Bean and Rice Ball Porridge)

Ingredients:

Soup Base:

• 1 cup azuki red beans
• 1/2 cup of white sugar (can substitute brown sugar)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon sweet (a.k.a sticky) rice flour
• Water

Rice Balls:

• 2/3 cup sweet rice flour
• 1/3 cup short grain (Korean or Japanese) rice flour
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Preparation:
The Red Bean Paste:

1. Rinse the azuki beans in water to remove debris.
2. Soak azuki beans in 4 cups of water in a pot overnight (or at least for 3 or more hours).
3. Pour off the water the beans were soaking in and add 4 cups of fresh water.
4. Bring beans to a boil and then lower to a simmer.
5. Simmer beans for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. The beans should mash easily when done.
6. Drain all the water from the cooked beans.
7. Puree the beans in a food processor.
8. Add the sugar, cinnamon, and salt to the mixture and blend everything together.
9. Return the mixture to the pot and cook for another 5 minutes.

The Rice Balls:

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the two rice flours, the water, and salt.
2. Knead the mixture until it has a consistent dough-like texture.
3. Pinch off about a teaspoon of the dough and roll it in your hands to make a small ball.
4. Repeat until all the dough is used.

The Porridge:

1. Combine red bean paste with 1 cup of water in a saucepan and bring to a simmering boil.
2. In a small bowl, mix 1 tablespoon of rice flour in 3 tablespoons of water.
3. Stir the rice flour slurry into the boiling red bean stock.
4. Add the rice balls and cook for 10 minutes on medium heat (should be simmering).
5. Taste the porridge for sweetness, adding more sugar according to your taste.

Kkaennip Jeon

Ingredients:

• 1/2 pound ground beef or pork
• 20 kkaennip (perilla) leaves
• 1/4 cup firm tofu
• 1/4 cup wheat flour
• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 2 tablespoons chopped carrot
• 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped scallion
• 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1/2 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• cooking oil

Preparation:

1. Rinse perilla leaves, setting them aside until the other ingredients are prepared.
2. Rinse tofu and then wrap it either in cheesecloth, a kitchen towel, or paper towel. Squeeze the wrapped tofu to decrease the water in it.
3. Combine the beef, tofu, 1 egg, carrot, onion, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, and pepper in a mixing bowl.
4. Gently beat the remaining two eggs in a flat container (the egg will become a coating).
5. Pour out about a quarter cup of the flour on a plate.
6. Coat the underside (dull side) of a perilla leaf with flour.
7. Spoon one tablespoon of the filling onto the left-hand side of the parilla leaf and then spread it out evenly to cover the entire left-hand side with the mixture.
8. Fold the empty side of the parilla leaf over on the filled side and press lightly.
9. Repeat the above steps until all the parilla leaves are used.
10. Coat the top and bottom of stuffed and folded parilla leaf with flour.
11. Dip both sides of the floured perilla leaf in the egg mixture.
12. Fry the egg-dipped perilla leaves on medium heat until lightly browned. Be careful not to burn the leaves.
13. Serve with the dipping sauce below.

Dipping Sauce Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup soy sauce
• 1/3 cup rice vinegar (or white vinegar)
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil (or red chili oil (in which case, omit the pepper flakes)
• 1 tablespoon chili pepper flakes (kochukaru)
• 1 tablespoon scallions, very thinly sliced

Combine all the ingredients above and serve the dipping sauce in small individual bowls.

If you have the requisite skills, eat the Kkaennip Jeon with chopsticks (Koreans favor metal ones) dipping them into the sauce first.

At holidays and other events, many different dishes are served together.

Recipe: Thomas Johnston-O'Neill
Photo: Heidi Adams
Cultural Adviser: Jon Choi

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